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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. Yet, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners totally shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.